ARE YOU HAVING PROBLEMS FITTING YOUR SLEEVES?
Are you having problems getting your sleeves to hang properly, or have bunching at the sleeve caps or underarms?
Accurately drafting armholes and sleeves can be problematic.
Problems such as the armholes being so tight that you can’t articulate your arms, or you might have a gaping space at the front or back of the mid-armhole area, or the fabric bunching at your underarms.
Sleeve caps may be too high or too low, causing fit problems.
Accurately measuring the ARM AND ARMHOLE DEPTH will eliminate most sleeve fit problems and allows the garment to fit comfortably against the body.
If you are learning how to draft or alter a pattern and experience FIT ISSUES, your first step should be ensuring that you have taken accurate measurements.
If you fail to take accurate measurements you will have FIT PROBLEMS with your slopers, patterns, and finished designs – GUARANTEED!
First, let me share THREE BASIC FACTS OF PATTERN DRAFTING with you.
1. To measure the body accurately for drafting or altering a pattern, you ABSOLUTELY MUST, know WHAT to measure and WHERE the measurements are to BEGIN and END [point to point].
2. If you are inconsistent or sloppy when taking your measurements you will have inconsistent or sloppy results – sad but true. . .
3. Learning to take accurate measurements is a SKILL that you can develop through skillful, deliberate, and consistent practice – kind of like learning to play the piano.
So, today, we’re going to master the skill of TAKING ACCURATE ARM MEASUREMENTS!
GETTING STARTED
Okay, before we get started, you will need:
1. To wear a tsleeveless garment,
2. A good measuring tape,
3. An extra pair of hands to help take the measurements, and
4. A worksheet to record your measurements.
MID-ARMHOLE MEASUREMENT – BACK
2. MID-ARMHOLE – Measure from the shoulder tip down to the bottom of the armpit, then divide that number in half
ARM LENGTHS
6. ARMHOLE DEPTH – Measure from the shoulder tip to the bottom of the armpit at the side seam [Measure both the front and the back armhole depths]
7. ELBOW LENGTH – Measure from the shoulder tip down to the elbow
8. ARM LENGTH – Measure from the shoulder tip to the top of the hand
MID-ARMHOLE MEASUREMENT – FRONT
1. MID-ARMHOLE – Measure from the shoulder tip down to the bottom of the armpit, then divide that number in half
ARM CIRCUMFERENCES
3. BICEP CIRCUMFERENCE – Measure around the bicep -the widest part of the upper arm
4. ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE – Measure around the elbow
5. WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE – Measure around the wrist
CAP HEIGHT NOTE
BICEP LENGTH/CAP HEIGHT* – Tie a string or strip of elastic around the bicep. Measure from the bicep to the shoulder tip and see “NOTE” below.
NOTE: For the Cape Height measurement, there are additional measurements to be used when you are drafting a sleeve, which is covered in my video on “How to Draft a Basic Sleeve.”
[*Sizes 3 – 6, add 3/8 inches. Sizes 7 – 8, add 1/2 inches. Sizes 9 – 10, add 5/8 inches. Sizes 11 – 12, add 3/4 inches. Sizes 13 – 14, add 1 inch. Sizes 15 – 16, add 1 – 1/8 inches. Size 18, add 1 –1/4 inches.]
Okay, now that you know how to take accurate Arm Measurements – it’s back to the drawing board. First, be sure you use a good measuring tape, wear a sleeveless garment – no loose-fitting clothing, and have someone assist you.
Record your measurements on the WORKSHEET included in my eBook “PATTERN DRAFTING FOR WOMEN | HOW TO TAKE ACCURATE ARM MEASUREMENTS.”
Get in the habit of checking your measurements a couple of times a year to update your worksheets, for body changes due to weight gain or loss and gravity shifts.
Once you’ve mastered the skill of taking accurate “ARM” measurements, you’re ready to draft your “BASIC SLEEVE FOUNDATION” – BTW this process is known as “FLAT PATTERNMAKING.”
You can also view the YouTube video: CLICK HERE. . .
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UP NEXT – HOW TO TAKE ACCURATE PANT MEASUREMENTS
If you are experiencing difficulty getting your Skirt slopers to fit properly, don’t miss PART 4 of this 4-PART SERIES “HOW TO TAKE ACCURATE PANT MEASUREMENTS.” CLICK HERE. . .
Thanks!